Cosima – Baltimore, MD

Review:

Cosima is one of a host of new chic restaurants sprouting up along the Jones Falls in what used to be a purely industrial area[Ma2] of Baltimore. It offers an inviting menu of Sicilian fare with classics such as Arincini (fried risotto balls), Lasagna alla Norma, all manner of seafood dishes, and a litany of regional Italian wines.

While Cosima’s menu says all the right things, the restaurant is unable to deliver upon the promise of such delicious fare. While food for the most part is prepared well it lacks flavor (save for several standouts like the Pasta alla Barbabietole which was fantastic so long as you like gorgonzola).

At the end of the day I am unwilling to pay Cosima prices for subpar flavor. Until the recipes change this restaurant will be reserved for wine tastings and happy hours.

Rating:

· Food: 5. When reading the offerings this is an exciting menu. It focuses on Sicilian cuisine which is rooted in Italian dishes but has far more Mediterranean and North African influences (geography really does wonders for food evolution). Unfortunately the restaurant does not deliver upon its initial promise. Most dishes are extremely well executed, that is to say they are cooked appropriately and have great texture or tenderness. However, nearly all the dishes fall flat on flavor, either coming across as bland or bitter (the Arancini where a microcosm for this issue, the Arincini themselves being crisp and having great texture but being completely devoid of flavor, they are accompanied by a pesto that tasted overwhelmingly of burnt oil offering an overpowering bitterness to every bite).

· Service: 4. My experience with the service at Cosima has been subpar. On my last visit my waiter did a fine job recommending dishes and describing the menu items however the entire supporting cast seemed to struggle. To start we received the wrong dinner, although a mistake I have seen many a time, it did not bode well for the rest of the service. The bus boys are what really hurt the dining experience. When picking up our plates (I’ll admit there was a little food left) they spilled bits of food and pasta all around our table and on my wife’s seat. This would have been fine if they acknowledged the downed food but they walked off and never came back to clean up or clear a path for my wife to get up and not move through pasta remains. The shining star of the service here was the valet outside. This complementary service is an absolute must in this location. There is no parking to speak of, save a parking garage that is not available to the public. This restaurant provided service was much appreciated and makes for a logistically simple visit.

· Ambiance: 9. Cosima really shines in this category. The environment they have created both indoors and out is inviting and energetic. When you pull into the private courtyard, strung up with bistro lights and surrounded by brick and glass walls, you are struck with the feeling you are about to enter a sophisticated party straight off the silver screen. Inside the restaurant is loud and energetic. The exposed ceilings, brick and leftover milling equipment give it a modern feel. I appreciated that the restaurant used some softer materials on the ceiling to try to dampen the sound, it doesn’t work that well but I appreciate the effort.

· Total: 6

Best Bite: Roasted Cauliflower, served with basil pesto

Recommended For: Cosima boasts one of the more thoughtful wine lists I have seen. It focuses on Italian wines and there menu is divided by wine region in Italy. This fantastic wine list coupled with the chic design of the restaurant make this a great spot for happy hour.

Getting There: 3000 Falls Rd. Baltimore MD 21211

When driving to this location it is important to note that there is little to no parking space available to the public. You should make use of the complementary (tip will cost you) valet service.